b'THE CORKBOARD|FALL 2023The partners were right. Just like the region\'s indigenous black sage, those originalvinifera vines planted back in 1993 are thriving. But conditions are harsh. The PAIRINGthe vineyards that Black Sage harvests actually sit on Canadas only pocket desert BLACK SAGE WINESwhich is part of the Great Basin Desert and an extension of Mexico\'s Sonoran The Black Sage Vineyard has built a reputation Desert. With that distinction, however, it should be noted that Black Sage Vineyards for high-quality, bold red wines. What does terroir is desert, but also cool-climate. That translates to scorching summer days bold mean to James? In terms of the wine,and a fairly short growing season. Once we get into October, were living on the boldness comes through in all of theseborrowed time, says James.flavoursyou have the oak, the tannins, the acid: The vines force their roots deep into the sandy soil to tap water and nutrients. TheTheyre all noticeable, but one element does not result is a lower-yielding vineyard of high-quality grapes. The desert conditions overtake another. Theyre multidimensional really let the fruit shine through, and allow for the total expression of the grape, wines, with a sense of balance. says the winemaker. Its dark cherry, strawberry fruit, spice and the essence of orange in the Merlot. With the Cabernet Franc, its all about the bright raspberry and acid When it comes to pairings, that boldnessbackbone with a medium-bodied tannic profile. For the Cabernet Sauvignon, is terrifically food-friendly, too, says James.darker and deeper black fruit is the message. We talk to him about two key reds. TheyreThe maturity of the vines makes a difference, says James, who has been at the a great first-sip introduction to the brand.winery since 2005. Prior to then, the Ontario expat had been plying his tradeat Thomas & Vaughan and Eastdell Estates in Niagara. With new vines, the grapes will ripen really quickly and youll get a lot of sugar production and not as much BLACK SAGE VINEYARD flavour production. As the vine matures, that comes into balance. Sugar productionCABERNET SAUVIGNONwill slow down and flavour production will increase. Its sort of like a human being,Everything from the grill,jokes James. You have the teenager coming in and saying lets do this, lets do this,is a great match here, sayslets do this.\' And then the adult comes in and says lets think about this. winemaker Jason James,Lets take our time. from steak and roast beefto barbecueall the bigger meats, and stews and braisingfor the winter.Try also with:aged, sharp cheeses.$32.99BLACK SAGE VINEYARD CABERNET FRANCThe Cabernet Franc is a littleLooking ahead, we ask about where Black Sage Vineyards Bordeaux-inspired varietalsless heavy with a little less tannin and respect for tradition will meet the future, when it comes to innovation in the fieldand brighter acid. With a little and in winemaking practices. What we can expect in 5 years? 10 years? chill on it, its great withI think Id like to see what type of technology can be brought to the vineyard,chicken and pasta.growth, harvest numbers; all that data collection and interpretation of dataTry also with: rack of lamb,knowing more about what the plant is doing, acid degradation, sugar accumulation,"venison, duck breast, slow-cooked says the winemaker. "I can taste certain things but theres stuff going on behind thepork, and mature, hard cheese.curtains that we can certainly take a look at.Its all about getting to know that Black Sage Bench terroir and tapping into $32.99 even harnessingthe power of this most remarkable, grape-growing place.visiTiNg BLaCk sagE viNEYaRd|17'